Pitti Uomo—the bi-annual menswear and tailoring trade show which takes place in Florence—is always frenetic, electric and frankly, spectacular. From iconic brands showcasing their upcoming collections to up-and-comers debuting exciting innovations, it’s always wonderful to witness, particularly when fuelled by copious amounts of espresso and next-to-no sleep.
As the sole representative of Studio Graft this time round, the task at hand was to cover as much ground as humanly possible, and given that my step count by Friday was close to hitting six-figures, I felt like I managed to do a decent enough job. For those that may not know too much about me, I spend the majority of my time photographing, writing about menswear, and delving deeper and deeper into the world of social media. I’m often on assignment with various publications documenting street style or covering events, so to be able to write about it for Studio Graft for the first time, is something of a treat.
Having almost missed my flight out to Florence due to a fire on the tracks at Canary Wharf (because of course there was a fire on the tracks at Canary Wharf), I managed to make it into the city proper, luggage in tow, in one piece. I often used to fly in on a Monday afternoon to get reacquainted with the city, before Pitti Uomo commenced the following day. The last few seasons, however, has seen black tie soirees take place on Monday nights, which I now consider the curtain openers. This year, the MAARNY team—an American triple threat of Angel Ramos, Michael Andrews and Brian Sacawa—hosted an incredible evening at St. Regis Florence in collaboration with The Dalmore and Davidoff cigars. With Christmas decorations still dotted around, the evening had a bit of a December Black Tie festive feel to it, and the warmth of the incredible cocktails did take the edge off of what was an unusually bitter evening — even for Florence’s standards.
The morning routine always kicks off with a flat white or two at SimBioSi coffee shop, before the fifteen-minute jaunt into the Fortezza da Basso where the tradeshow takes place. This time round however, even if I had stayed completely stationary, the wind would’ve probably gotten me there anyway. More on that later. Every season, a new facade is adorned which usually highlights the theme. This year, considering how baltic the temperature was, the theme was ‘fire’. “Fashion is undergoing a complex transition phase, and we at Pitti Immagine cannot simply stand by and observe. This edition of Pitti Uomo will reflect, from both cultural and business perspectives, not only the new demands emerging in international markets but also the trends and consumer behaviours driving notable cultural phenomena and specific demands,” says CEO of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoeleone.
This season saw our brands showcase what they do best. Crockett & Jones are a name recognised the world over, and the back-to-back appointments and visitors truly showcased that. Croots, now showcasing in the main pavilion, barely had time to come up for air, such was the footfall. The past few months in particular have been incredibly exciting as we’ve been working together to grow their reach. Pitti, therefore, is always a necessary move. Situated quite literally next door, I managed to catch Rory and Marie-Therese of Inis Meáin to go through their history and how it’s showcased in their latest collection. Having personally been a massive fan of the brand since my time at The Rake magazine, it’s wonderful to see how this brand is truly going from strength to strength.
Stepping out of the fortezza and into Piazza della Signoria, Awling were hosted by our friends at Bennett Winch, where J. Mueser were also showcasing their latest collection—not a bad group to rub shoulders with if you ask me. Awling’s collection of leather belts and accessories has been steadily growing with a lot of new products Styles launching this year—including the slim braided belt which I am particularly looking forward to. Several hours were spent fawning over each brand’s aesthetically pleasing collection, whilst overlooking one of the most beautiful parts of the city.
Tuesday night proved to be the busiest evening of the week, with Plaza Uomo teaming up with Manto Italia followed by Scarosso and Esquire, as well as Campaign for Wool’s Art of Traceability all in the space of a few hours. The usual format of the night following the tradeshow’s conclusion at 5pm usually consists of a quick spruce, a pre-drink from 6pm, event hopping until 9pm followed by a slow and beautifully Italian dinner. First up on the culinary list of hotspots was Al Travai, which never disappoints.
Whilst the morning run club continued to be the inspiration for many of us that were feeling the effects of the previous night’s shenanigans, you can tell which of us don’t partake in shaking off the cobwebs based on how dark the tints on our glasses are. That being said, the tradeshow for me during the day is much of the same, and a wonderful excuse to catch up with friends old and new, until we do it all over again in the evenings. This time, though, a few friends took a leisurely stroll to the other side of the river to eat what’s probably the best crostini you’ll find at Club Culinario da Osvaldo, followed by the most mouth-watering pistachio affogato courtesy of Vivoli. It was almost worth missing the WMBrown party for — almost. Speaking of, in all my time frequenting Pitti Uomo, never have I seen Matt Hranek’s party so insanely busy. By the time I arrived, it was near impossible to move—inside or outside. After I managed a single negroni courtesy of a friend deciding to get four drinks at once from the bar, it was off to L’Osteria di Giovanni for Myrqvist’s customary dinner. For those that haven’t visited this place, when you eventually go, make sure you order everything that involves artichokes and thank me later.
The final event of Pitti hosted by J. Mueser and Maximilian Mogg is always fun, as tradeshow-goers and menswear aficionados literally jampack the street, wine and cigars in hand. All in all, there’s something quite special about Pitti in January—you’re able to wear your full wardrobe for one. As the city is often quieter due to a stark lack of tourists, the menswear set often takes over the town for what is a magical week for those that love to dress well, eat good and take in the beauty that the birthplace of the Renaissance has to offer.
Until next time.
