Why are we not surprised when Mats Klingberg, founder of Trunk Clothiers, asked us to meet him for coffee at Chiltern Firehouse for this interview? A stone's throw from the store’s flagship on Chiltern Street in London’s Marylebone, Chiltern Firehouse was launched in 2013 by the renowned hotelier André Balazs, who also owns Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles, California. Elegant, cool and certainly not gaudy, Mats is clearly at home within the confines of this charming spot, which easily supersedes its five-star credentials.
An ally of Trunk, Chiltern Firehouse draws thousands of visitors each week to Chiltern Street, which has, over the years, been establishing itself as London’s premier menswear destination, and Trunk was the catalyst. Indeed, Mats could be deemed a visionary for recognising the potential of Chiltern Street as a cherished retail hub upon learning of Balazs's intention to rejuvenate the retired fire station. And so with swift action, he established Trunk ahead of Chiltern Firehouse, and it has proudly stood on Chiltern Street for nearly 15 years. In 2018, Mats opened his second Trunk store in Zurich.
Despite being amid a recession and oscillating in a post-pandemic world, Chiltern Street is currently thriving. “I think what they [the Portman Estate, which owns much of the surrounding area] have created with Chiltern Street is unique globally—to have this mix of independent shops is amazing, as you don't have all these high-street brands here that you would have on any other street in London,” he says. “So I think that makes Chiltern Street unique in London and globally. And also, it's just so centrally located, so easy to get to from anywhere.”
As one can imagine, it’s always a treat to visit Trunk, and we’ve had the pleasure of working with them since early 2021. This partnership has been primarily on all things web and digital marketing, though we’ve also produced campaign shoots. As a result, we know the brand very well. Moreover, it genuinely speaks to our shared appreciation for considered menswear and modern luxury, the latter of which is a hot topic of debate which we’re keen on getting under the hood of through this series of conversations (in case you missed it, here’s our last conversation with James Fox of Crockett & Jones).
“For me, luxury has to be special and unique. Whether it’s an object or an experience, it must last a long time and be hard to get ahold of. The old definition of luxury nods to an expensive item from a high-end brand. Of course, that's part luxury, but in my mind, it's really things that are more difficult to get access to. And I think that's why we work with Japanese brands, like Ichizawa Hanpu, who we must travel in person to get.” Hanpu is one of a handful of Japanese craft-led brands that Trunk stocks (it’s the only stockist in London), and the quality is unmistakable. “There’s history and craft, which will improve with time. Those are some of the aspects that define luxury and are not about being super expensive.”
It’s difficult to ignore media publications of every kind to discuss this new wave of ‘quiet luxury’, which nods towards a subdued and logo-less wardrobe that sticks within the constraints of a muted and classical colour palette. But Trunk has quietly been behind this shift in consumer preference for some time, and Mats is the embodiment of it; he’s in his typical, smart casual uniform of tailored separates in a mix of earthy and navy tones made from natural materials, all of which refrain from fighting for attention. Of course, everything is from his in-house line Trunk, which offers a great value proposition for luxury items and an entry point to the world of menswear.
When asked about the manufacturers that Trunk uses to produce its in-house line, Mats replies, “Most of the suppliers we work with I’ve visited personally, and when I go, I want to see people that look happy working there. This is why we don’t generally work with manufacturers in the Far East, though I’m sure there are ones with good working conditions. I want to meet the owners and people and see the product being made.” It’s overwhelmingly evident that he’s in control and oversees every business touchpoint and that he understands that luxury begins at inception with proper ethics and sustainable practices.
If you were to ask any of Trunk’s regular customers, they’d agree that a major factor in its success has undoubtedly been a result of its service levels, which, from a retail perspective, are on par with the hospitality you’d receive across the road where we are sitting. “I studied business at the university and then I went to New York and studied fashion. I also studied hospitality at a hotel school in Switzerland. So I think my approach [with setting up a retail store] was really to bring all that together. Like in a nice hotel, it's really sort of about creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.” Mats is every bit the traveller, and we encourage you to read the Journals to find inspiration for the hotels you must visit across Europe and Asia.
Trunk's store on Chiltern Street is complemented by its Zurich counterpart. Both exude charm and a laid-back ambience that makes shopping a pleasure rather than a chore, offering a sanctuary for the modern man who might be caught up in the hustle and bustle of inner-city life. If luxury is a feeling that can be simultaneously tactile and emotional, it can be felt inside Trunk's stores. Staff are attentive and polite but never pushy (unlike many traditional ‘luxury’ stores on nearby Bond Street). There’s pleasant instrumental music, usually chosen by one of the well-turned-out staff members, and you can peruse through the rails and stacks of cashmere knits in peace and without fear of being pushed for a sale – unlike on nearby Bond Street.
If luxury retail is to prosper, plenty of pages can be removed from Trunk’s book, which aims to balance Eastern and Japanese retail practices. With its perfectly curated offering of Japanese menswear with sleek European brands, retailers like Trunk are becoming increasingly rare, and it’s exciting to know that it will be the 15th anniversary next year.
